Settling In

Those of you who know me well would know that I could never stoop so low as to become hooked on a TV soap opera. In South Africa, the “soapies” come on TV between 5 and 7pm and I am told are 3 years behind the sagas in the U.S. So, my only question for you, is tell me now on “The Bold and the Beautiful:” DOES RIDGE GET BACK WITH BROOKE OR DOES HE STAY WITH TAYLOR? IN FACT, WHO DOES BROOKE END WITH, ANYWAY? Ah, the twists and turns of life as a wise man recently told me.

I am two months living now at my permanent work site that Peace Corps matched me with. I have a nice bedroom with double bed, desk with mirror and ample closets. I don’t have privacy except in my bedroom which I thought would be more of a problem than it is. In South African cultures, friends and family don’t wait for an invitation or appointment to get together socially. One just arrives at the home and walks in. Culture also dictates that if that guest is hungry, he must be given food. If the guest arrives in the middle of some project or work the family is engaged in, then the guest just pitches in. The people feel it is an expression of love and friendship to be this intimate with each other. Nonetheless, I need to get away sometimes and new friends I’ve made will fetch me and take me to church or their homes for supper…….there’s not much else going on in my small town, no movie theaters, no shopping malls, no book stores. So, going to church has been my method of meeting people outside of work.

South Africa is a very religious country. There is no separation of church and state here in South Africa. We gather as a group to begin our work day at the NGO office I work out of with one or two praise songs and then a prayer, usually given by the director of the organization. Before a business meeting we pray and before a meal we pray. The majority of the population is Christian with a minority of Hindus and Moslems. I find this cultural arrtribute helps me keep my perspective and balance during the day.

The major adjustment for me living here has been the issue of race relations. I know this is an indelicate subject, but South Africa’s history and identity is all about race and where you fit in the scheme of things by the color of your skin. When talking about someone in conversation, their race is mentioned as one of the main identifiers. I live in a formerly all white Afrikaaner town. Before democracy in 1994, no Coloreds, Indians, and especially Blacks, could live in town by law. By law, they lived in shacks (and still do), tens of thousands just over a low rising hill by where I live now. They lived far enough away so not to be seen but close enough to ride buses and kombis into town to do the menial labor of the Whites. As I travel around the country I see all communities set up the same way. South Africa is 82% Black and 10% White with Coloreds and Indians making up the balance. Most of my friends are Black. It is more challenging to make Afrikaaner friends. I sense from some of the shopkeepers that outsiders, no matter what color their skin, are to be viewed with caution. It will take more time to gain their trust, I think.

Language is an interesting issue as well. Everyone learns English in school and can speak it well generally, yet I have heard English being spoken on the street just once in 8 weeks. Generally, English is only used for business meetings or when the folks I’m with are trying to make it easier for me.

Work-wise, I am still in an orientation period. The Peace Corps drilled into us at training that we should take 3 months at our work sites before we decide to take on any large projects. One thing I do feel good about is an initiative that I am helping to facilitate which involves a community collaborative between Dutch Reform Church pastors inside town and Black Christian pastors from the township outside of town to create a drop-in center for OVCS (orphans and vulnerable children due to the effects of AIDS) in the township. Without even a thorough survey, our home-based care volunteers have identified 260 orphans in the township, some in child-headed households with the biggest of their needs being food, clothing and shelter…….a disaster relief situation if ever I saw one (and I did in New Orleans). When I saw the bridges of understanding and friendship begin to develop between the two principal pastors of different colors, culture and history, I knew then and there that if I never achieved anything else in my two years in the Peace Corps, I could go home to the U.S happy and satisfied with contributing to the healing and growth of the new South Africa.

Walking and home security SA style

I like to walk. There are four good reasons why I like to walk. One is that it reduces stress. Secondly, it is good exercise. Lastly, it is springtime here and the neighborhoods are lined with old shade trees and flowers in full bloom which are beautiful to see and sense and, lastly, it is a good way to meet the locals. So, why am I the only one walking here? I am told daily by shopkeepers, neighbors, my roommate and the Peace Corps that my town is perfectly safe to walk in during the day. There is no crime in my neighborhood. There is a reservoir within walking distance with weeping willow trees, groomed lawns and a great children’s playground. I walked to it recently on a late Friday afternoon and found no one there, no children playing after school and nobody strolling about. So then why aren’t the locals enjoying this wonderful time of year? Could it be the coiled barbed wire that sat on top of the 10 foot fence circling the property?
Walking is just not done here. Unless it is to pop into a shop for supplies or unless you are too poor to get a lift, everyone uses some kind of transport. A car culture there is here but not for the same reasons as in southern California because the town is so small, you can walk through the main street in 10 minutes.
I walk back and forth everyday to work. This causes my roommate, co-workers and residents to become perplexed. I am looked at like I have two heads. Why are you walking they say? Don’t you want a lift? When I ask them why I shouldn’t walk, they can’t give me an answer.
There are no sidewalks in my town other than in the commercial areas. Beautiful estate properties on quarter acre plots line the neighborhood where I walk to work. There is 15-20 feet of groomed lawn from the security fences of the estates to the curb of the street. The streets are wide with huge shade trees on both sides. Yet, there is no sidewalk on either side of the street.
I’m guessing that recent South African history has a lot to do with the answers to my questions.


Home security, South African style, is something that I have not seen anywhere in the world. I must paint a picture for you to really understand. First, pretend you are a burglar attempting to invade a residence here. What you first encounter is a brick, cement or wire fence about 5 feet tall surrounding the property. On top of the fence may be coiled barbed wire if you’re of modest means, but most often the entire surface of the fence is covered with is a row of three prong metal spikes that will impale you should you leap from a helicopter to do evil deeds. I have seen electrified wires on top of the spikes but not yet in my town. There is usually a sign by the gate to the property with the picture of a snarling dog, mouth wide open with teeth baring and saliva dripping just in case you didn’t see and hear the snarling dogs just inside the fence staring at you, snarling and barking. Most everyone has guard dogs, including me. To be fair, they are not all German Sheppard’s, but dachshunds can have a pretty intimidating bark The wealthy have automatic gate openers but many like me have gate locks that must unlocked and locked every time you enter and leave the property. Once you’ve managed to get inside the property, your work has just begun. There may be another security fence to trespass before getting to the house but more than likely there will be a metal security fence and gate enclosing a small patio area in front of the front door. If not, there will be a metal security door you must unlock with a skeleton key before you can unlock the deadbolt lock of the front door. Don’t forget about the sensor lights illuminating everything you do. Now if you have become discouraged by now and think you’ll try entering the house through a window, forget it. Everyone window I’ve seen in South Africa except in poor areas has metal bars on it. Plus, it is inappropriate to have windows without curtains. At all times, day and night, curtains are drawn so I can never see outside nor can you see in. Lastly, the well-to-do have home security systems for the interior of the house with rapid response patrol cars hanging out.
Basically,, if there is a fire inside a home in South Africa, the inhabitants will become toast, literally, because trying to get out of your fortress and property takes a half an hour.
Don’t worry about my safety. My key ring has 6 keys on it and not one is for a car.